Amphibians
Frogs, toads, axolotls — permeable skin, picky parameters, a hands-off pet.
- Lifespan
- 5–20+ years
- Diet
- Live insects
- Social
- Species-dependent
- Habitat
- Aquatic to humid
Amphibians look easy because they're often still. They are not. Their environmental requirements are unforgiving, and they hide illness until it's advanced.
Tank setup
Amphibian enclosures fall into three patterns: fully aquatic (axolotls), semi-aquatic / paludarium (fire-belly toads), and terrestrial humid (most tree frogs). Each needs different planning. Start with the natural habitat of your species and work backward to the tank specs.
Water & humidity
Amphibians breathe and absorb water through their skin. Tap water must be dechlorinated with an aquarium conditioner before any contact — chlorine and chloramine damage their skin and gills. Humidity needs to match the species' native habitat; under-humidified frogs become lethargic, then sick, then dead, in that order.
Diet
Almost all pet amphibians are insectivores. Crickets, dubia roaches, isopods, and earthworms make up most diets, dusted with calcium plus D3. Feed in the evening for nocturnal species. Watch the body condition score — many amphibians overeat to obesity in captivity.
The hands-off rule
Your hands carry oils, soaps, lotions, and salts that can be lethal to an amphibian's skin. Handle only when necessary (vet visits, transfers), with hands rinsed thoroughly in dechlorinated water. Frogs are not lizards. Treat them as display animals you observe rather than pets you hold.
Common mistakes
- Using untreated tap water in any setup
- Handling with bare unwashed (or freshly washed and soapy) hands
- Co-housing species with different temperature or humidity needs
- Feeding only mealworms — too high in chitin, low in nutritional variety
- Cleaning the tank with household disinfectants instead of amphibian-safe alternatives